One Last Breath
The wind blew hard under dark grey skies onto the face of Patrick O’Connor. His long dark brown hair wove back and forth like a flag. The rain battered his head like hammers and the sound of the thunder sent chills down his spine. The sand beneath his feet seemed like mud. He felt himself sinking through. Patrick looked up to the skies, the rain dropped on his face. The sun, nowhere to be found under the thick, black clouds that covered the sky. He thought about his four year old son James. Patrick’s wife died at childbirth leaving just the two of them. Behind him were tents with blue tops. He could see the people inside in sweatshirts and hot mugs of coffee. He licked his lips, longing for their comfort. He only tasted salt.
Patrick was bound in a rubber suit, with a leash on his ankle attached to a surfboard; it felt more like a ball and chain. He bent over and picked it up feeling the stickiness of the wax. He bought it up under his arm, and looked forward. In front of him was a vast sea. He was watching as fifteen to twenty feet waves came crashing down on to the ocean below. It reminded him of when he took James to Sea World and they watched as the orca whales leaped out of the water and come crashing down, soaking everyone who was near the tank.
These were not orca whales; they were waves that Patrick would have to surf. He had to, for James. He started to walk towards the oceans labyrinth. He stood on the edge of the coast his toes barely touching the water. He took one last look at the beach and jumped in the water on top of his board.
He didn’t want to think about the excruciating sting of the ice-cold water. He paddled: left, right, left, right. He could hear his heart beating: thump, thump, thump, thump. Shivers were sent down his spine. The first wave came and broke about twenty feet in front of him. He pushed down on the nose of his board and pressed his right foot on the back of the board. He went under water and under the wave. He could feel the pressure of the water pounding on him.
There was no time to think, he had to keep paddling, his arms grew tiresome. He had to go at a consistent pace or else he would get too slow and the waves would break on top of him. The second wave came and it broke ten feet away. He pushed down on the nose of his board and pressed his right foot on the back. He came up and paddled. A huge clap of thunder was so loud that it almost knocked him of his board. His arms were almost numb. He thought about James and he was afraid that he would never see him again. The third wave came. Patrick hoped that he would make it over the lip of the wave. He paddled with all of his might to get over the top. To him, it felt like climbing a mountain. The wave started to break. He paddled and paddled. The nose of his board broke over the wave, his body followed. He thought for sure the wave would suck him back over. It didn’t.
At last he was on the outside. The set was over. He took a break and sat on his board. He looked back at the beach. He was about one hundred yards out. He looked forward. The rain and wind were still whipping against his face. He saw something coming. It looked like a wall coming straight for him. It was his wave. He paddled closer to it then turned around and paddled to catch it. The wave was moving much faster than he was, so he went and used all of his might to ride it. At last the wave was upon him. This particular wave was much larger than the others. It was about twenty-five feet high and it was breaking to the right. The wave let him in. He took his last paddle.
He stood up on his board and looked at the rest of the wave. Everything started to move in slow motion. He started to drop down the face of the wave. It took a lifetime to get to the bottom where he turned and got in the middle of the wave. The roar of the wave that was just right behind him was ear shattering. It was the biggest barrel he had ever seen. He kneeled down and uttered three words: "For you James." With that the barrel came up on him and he was inside. His vision of the rest of the wave got smaller and smaller, as he got deeper into the tube. It felt a little warmer inside because a thick wall of water protecting him from the wind and rain.
Suddenly there was a little bump arose in front of him, which turned out to be a spot of where a reef poked through. He tried to go above it but he hit it straight on.
His board stayed put while he flew forward. Right before he hit the water, he closed his eyes and drew one last breath.
The water immediately froze his body and his muscles cramped. The pressure of the water on his ears was tremendous. He started to swim down in hope that the wave would pass over him but his surfboard was too buoyant and the wave took the board and Patrick was sucked along with it. He was going over the falls. He saw his board go over his head and then the wave brought him down. He hit his back straight on the reef and his leash caught under a rock. The wave passed and he could see his board float above him like a tombstone. He tried vigorously to get it unstuck. His heart beat faster. His vision started to turn black as he reached out his hand as to grasp something. There was nothing as he was done. There was no more for Patrick. He thought about James. Where would he go? Who will take care of him? He closed his eyes one last time.
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